One month later ... (03/13/01)

Sorry for the long delay in updating you. I have had a bevy of emails expressing worry/wonder as to what I have been up to. I realize, especially after some of my road stories, that a long period of silence could cuase some concern. Not to worry, all is fine on my end.

Sometimes in life you are so busy living it that you don't want to stop to document it. So it has been this last month with me--a frenetic pace of activity which I have tried to capture in my personal journal, but have not yet made the time to share with all of you.

I will give you a brief update.

Since I last wrote from the Congo, I returned to Uganda. The drive through Rwanda past the Volcano Park was yet another fantastic ride. The mist rises from the hills where the gorilla still roam.

Back in Kampala, I spent some time with friends, and engaged in my favorite hobby -- collecting music. I wound up at CBS, owner of four radio stations, and wound up being interviewed on Radio Buganda on a music show. The show was in Buganda language, with translations being provided as necessary. Once I showed a real interest in the music, the Ugandas went out of their way to help me in every way, including giving me some great local CDs.

From Kampala, I stopped in Jinja, about 90km east, at the Source of the Nile. Yes, this is where the Nile begins its long journey north to Egypt. I decided to be a typical tourist and took a rafting trip up the Nile. For $65, you get a rafting trip through 8 sets of rapids (three are class 5), a great BBQ at the end of the day, and a night's stay in a lodge.

On the second class 5 rapids, everyone fell out of the raft. I grabbed onto the safety line and then we hit the last portion of the rapids. The raft shot straight up jerked my right arm hard. I had been nursing a shoulder injury I incurred just before I left, and now it was bad. I could hardly move my arm and was struggling to get my head above water. Long story short, I got through and was considering stopping right there, but took a rest and babied my arm as much as I could.

Still, when I got to the lodge, I had serious doubts about how much more travelling I could do. I was depressed. I decided to go straight to Kenya and see a doctor. The next morning I packed my bike, took a quick stroll to the source of the nile (photos are on my site -- link below), and then headed out. As I rode, I thought about how much it took to get me here, and decided, I could bear the pain for a while--I was going to Sipi Falls--Uganda's most spectacular water fall!

I made it to the Crow's Nest lodge which looks directly out over the falls. Who should I meet but a German couple taking their honeymoon on motorcycles--and he way a physical therapist! I am convinced God is watching over me.

He examined me and told me he was pretty sure it was a muscle problem rather than a torn tendon/ligament. Then he gave me some exercises to do. At this point, my shoulder is still bothering me, but it is better than it was, and he gave me the confidence to keep going. (No, I still haven't seen a doctor. I know what she'll say -- put it in a sling for 6 weeks. That can wait :-)

On my way back to Kenya, I had an hour long discussion with a border official about African politics. I don't have time to write about it here, but it was time well spent.

As I rode to Nairobi, off to my right the sun set on the Great Rift Valley -- what a sunset. Ah, but don't take your eyes off the road for more than 2 seconds.

Back in Kenya it was a frenzy of:

* Teaching Dance -- I taught a group of dancers, mostly professional, how to dance Cuban-style salsa and rueda. We performed at the Carnivore, one of the top restaurants/clubs in Nairobi. We also did some other Caribbean dances -- the Dollar Wine, Movin' (to the left).

* Studying Dance -- I took several classes with Isaac Karanja who is the top African traditional dancer in Kenya. His classes were the most intense I have ever had. Of course, I had to work around my shoulder.

* Working on my motorcycle. Kawasaki came through with a shipment of much-needed parts--thanks to Mel Moore at Kawasaki and Gary Kout, an original moonrider. I spent several entire days sweating in the hot Kenyan sun, removing my rear tire, front forks, rear shock, chain, front rim, etc. etc. You get the idea. I was the only dancer that always had grease under his fingernails.

* Document documents. Got my visa for Ethiopia! I am literally leaving Nairobi and soon I post this journal entry). Also, got a second Carnet du Passage sent to me from South Africa -- so I can keep crossing borders.

* Care Package from my Dad -- which included good socks and earplugs...THANKS DAD!

* Road trip to Mombasa -- this was a fantastic little excursion. I'll write more on this later.

Uganda had their election yesterday. It was exciting to witness the build up, but I was glad to be out of the country for the actual election. I could tell things would heat up. I still haven't seen the news, so I don't know what is happening. Is it making the news in the US?

Many of you have asked about the food. The food in Nairobi is great--depending on your budget. Most African countries have some staple foods, which consist primarily of some type of corn meal -- called milli-mil in South Africa, ugali in Kenya, kaunga in Uganda, and nsima in Malawi. It is a thick, bland meal that you eat with your hands and add to each bit some greens (spinach, etc.) and/or meat.

The first few times you have it, it is great. But after a while, it gets old. In Uganda, they eat a lot of matooke, which is basically fried banana paste. Very fattening and a little bland. Either you like it or you don't.

Of course, those places close to water usually have great fish. This was the case near the beach in Mozambique, near Lake Malawi, in Mombasa, and especially in Gisenyi, Rwanda -- great fish in Lake Kivu.

Finally, I want to mention the children. The ongoing heartwrenching issue with my travels is constantly seeing hungry children. I see them in the country and I see them in the city. I think the city children cause me more concern, because there is not the availability of food from the land in the city that there is in the country.

As I mentioned earlier, I don't give out money (except in exceptional circumstances), but I regularly buy children bread, or fruit, or hand out candy. But even this can be dicey. I gave a small boy a piece of cake in Kampala. He was apparently alone, but after I gave him the bread he walked a few yards away and then he was stripped of the cake by some homeless adults.

I remain hopeful that the efforts of the NGOs and charitable organizations, combined with efforts of local governments, will make headway in fight against poverty in Africa. And in particular, Save the Children, is one organization that is making a positive difference in the lives of many children.

Well, I've got to run. I'll try to make my updates a bit more frequent. As for photos, the easiest thing for me to do for now, was to set up a photo album on yahoo. Go to:

http://photos.yahoo.com/jimbosowers

There you will find a series of photo albums with photos from the trip. The albums are by country, and the file names usually give some explanation. The plan is to put these photos into the Moonride site when I return.

You will see a photo of two men holding hands. I included it because here in Africa, it is very common to see men of all ages holding hands--either walking around, or just standing and talking. And it does not mean they are gay--they are just good friends.

The other photo to note is the one of the women walking carrying things on their heads. This photo represents an image I have seen thousands of times. This is how so much food and water and firewood gets moved in Africa.

Take care my friends,

Jim Sowers

Nairobi, Kenya