Notes from Addis Ababa (04/13/01)

So, here are some snippets, each of which has much more behind it:

The Food

-------------

The staple of Ethiopian food is enjera -- a bread-like dough that is spread flat over a large round plate. A variety of vegetables and spices are then dolloped on top of the enjera and you use your hands to tear it and use it to scoop the other food into bites. It's really tasty, but quite filling, and for many Westerners (myself included), enjera induces severe flatulance :-)

Fruit Juices: another staple of the diet here is fruit juice -- mango, guava, orange, and avocado. It is usually served in a mug, and is a thick blended juice served with a half-lime on the side. Mixed juice is the best, both in flavor and presentation, with layers of green, yellow, and pinkish-purple.

Caffeine!! Coffee was invented here, so this old San Francisco boy is in caffeine heaven. It is every bit as the strongest Bay-Area brew. My favorite is makiato - it's like a mini, supercharged latte.

Italian influence: The lasting influence of the Italian occupation include cappucino machines in every bar, lots of Ice Cream parlors, and spaghetti on every menu (and there are a few very good Italian restaurants here) -- I'm starting to gain some weight back!

Did I mention that Ethiopia is quite inexpensive. A real deal for us travellers.

Religion

----------

I believe the majority of Ethiopians are Christian, although there is also a large Muslim community. Of the Christians the majority are Orthodox. As part of their tradition, they fast for the two months before Easter (which for them will be this Sunday, 15-April). The fast means abstaining from all meat and meat products -- eggs, cheese, etc.

Also, part of the tradition includes going to the church and kneeling to the ground, crossing oneself, and then standing again. Some people do this 41 times on Good Friday, others do it 1000 times of the course of the week!

This Easter Sunday will be marked by great celebrations -- now you know why I stayed so long in Addis.

Radio and TV

------------------

To understand the media, you have to know a little of the history. Ethiopia went through a Marxist revolution in the mid-70s which led to the ouster of Haile Selasie. The group in power until the early 90s was known as the Derg.

The Derg were overthrown in 1993 and a capitalist society is slowly, painfully evolving. But the remants of socialist society remain--including state-owned media.

For a long time the only TV station was ETV, and just recently TVAfrica was just added -- a station that broadcasts throughout Africa. Each of these stations are on only a few hours a day.

There are two radio stations, both run by Radio FM. They broadcast from 6am until midnight. The station is a bit like a military complex--and one goes through some scrutiny before being allowed to enter.

Since I am carrying a lot of music with me, I was soon invited to be part of two radio shows--tonight I will be playing Cuban salsa with DJ Kin! (They also interviewed me about my trip and American culture -- something I know less and less about :-)

The Cuban Connection

-----------------------------

Just two days ago, I had the most unexpected and pleasant surprise. I chanced upon a community of Ethiopians who had lived in Cuba. I discovered a little bar called "Havana Club" that was complete with Havana Club (the Cuban rum) logos, glasses, posters, and of course the rum itself in ample supple.

The owners, Samuel and Yared, had lived in Cuba 20 and 13 years, respectively. I learned that since the revolution some 5000 Ethiopian men and women had lived in Cuba, many 5 years or more. Many were children who had lost a parent in the war, and went at the invitation of the Cuban government.

So there is this generation of people that have spent a portion of the childhood and adult life in Cuba. Some, such as Samuel are more comfortable speaking Spanish than Amharic. In some sense, they are having a bi-cultural identity crisis.

But for me it was a real pleasure to be around the music and culture that I love, and spend so much time with when at home. It was eerie sitting in this bar where I could here an Amharic conversation in the background, but in front of me were new friends speaking Spanish exactly as I heard it in the streets of Cuba, laced with the same slang, "Que bola asere!", "Ta pinga" and more!

Save the Children

----------------------

I had an extraordiary visit with the Save the Children office here in Addis. There were most pleased to meet with me and hear about the trip. And Worknesh, the special projects co-ordinator, described for me many of their activities.

Save the Children, US helps over 400,000 children and adolescents in Ethiopia. They have just launched a web site, the address I will have to post later. (I did got a job offer to stay and do computer work for them -- and I must say it is tempting -- the people of Ethiopia are treating me fantastically.)

So much more to tell, but it will have to wait.

I now have my visas for Sudan and Egypt -- so, barring unforeseen difficulties, the Cape to Cairo trek may soon be complete.

Warm Regards,

Jim